Hotels are the standard for overnight accommodations away from home, but in Japan, ryokan offer the ultimate lodging experience. There, you can relax in a rejuvenating hot spring, enjoy the very best of Japan’s authentic cuisine, and get a good night’s sleep on a comfortable futon (布団) mattress. If experiencing traditional Japanese culture is on your to-do list, staying at a ryokan is a must!
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What is a ryokan (旅館)?
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn and a prime example of Japanese hospitality. Rather than just a place to stay for the night, think of staying at a ryokan as its own unique experience. There are more than 50,000 ryokan across Japan, and they are enjoyed by locals and foreigners alike.
From the architecture to the food, everything about these inns is purely Japanese. Many are family-run establishments which give them that much more authenticity. Until an ownership change in 2017, the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan in Yamanashi was operated by over 50 generations of the same family for over 1300 years!
There are plenty of ryokan to choose from, both new and old, but the heart of the ryokan is the onsen (温泉, hot spring). Hot springs and volcanoes go hand-in-hand, and Japan’s location on the Pacific Ring of Fire means that there’s no lack of either. Japan’s 111 active volcanoes keep thousands of naturally-occurring hot springs warm and rich with minerals throughout the year.
What are the differences between a ryokan and a hotel?
If you have stayed in a hotel in your own country, you will find that Japanese hotels are roughly the same: Western-style beds, a list of familiar amenities, and fully stocked pay-per-item mini fridges.
Ryokan are uniquely Japanese. You will still have a room to sleep in and the same basic amenities as hotels, but there is so much more:
- You can expect to receive a light, casual style of kimono known as a yukata (浴衣) to wear on the premises—even to bed!
- Hot baths are the highlight. Many ryokan have their own hot spring sources, but even if the bath is filled with regular water, an emphasis is placed on a relaxing experience.
- Dinner will be traditional cuisine known as kaiseki-ryōri (会席料理) or simply kaiseki. This multi-course meal will introduce you to all of the elements of Japanese fine dining.
- Many ryokan place a focus on beautiful scenery both on and off the premises. Enjoy Zen gardens or towering mountains carpeted with greenery as you take a leisurely walk after your bath!
What are the differences between a ryokan and a minshuku (民宿)?
While ryokan have more of a resort atmosphere between its accommodations and amenities, minshuku are family-run guesthouses or bed and breakfasts. Usually, they offer a basic traditional Japanese experience: included dinner and breakfast, a tatami-mat room with a futon to sleep on, and the chance to interact with the Japanese family that runs the minshuku.
Rather than housing several groups like a ryokan, most minshuku are small and can only accommodate a handful of guests. This gives you the opportunity for a quieter experience and a closer look at what life is like living in Japan. They are often located in the more rural areas of Japan, and are a considerably cheaper option. You may spend less than one hundred USD to stay at a minshuku for a night, while a ryokan will likely be several hundred.
What to expect when staying in a ryokan
Locations: Embrace mountain views or city life
Anywhere you go in Japan, you won’t have to look hard to find a ryokan. They can be in idyllic countryside settings or the center of Japan’s biggest cities. Since hot springs are such a quintessential element, they are also usually situated near natural springs.
Depending on the time of year, the landscape and climate can change the atmosphere. The cherry blossoms in the spring and maple leaves turning red in the fall are famous worldwide; where and when you go is something to take into consideration. This can also impact availability, as ryokan in certain popular tourist destinations can be booked months in advance.
You will, of course, want to factor in price. Cost varies widely among ryokan, and affordable options can be found inside and outside cities. To get the most value, consider the balance of amenities and location that suit you. Keep reading to learn more about popular towns to choose from!
Accommodations: Fall asleep on a futon
No linoleum floors here! Or carpet for that matter. Instead, the private rooms at ryokan are in the traditional Japanese style with tatami mats, decorated with distinctive architecture and artwork.
A modest raised alcove against the wall (tokonoma 床の間) may feature Japanese artwork like pottery, calligraphy, or flower arrangements. Furniture will be low, meant for sitting on cushions, low chairs, or the floor itself. Rather than typical Western doors, sliding doors like fusuma (襖, sturdy and made of heavy opaque paper) or shōji (障子, made of wooden lattices with thin paper) are used to separate sections of the room or to separate the room from the outside.
When it’s time to sleep, mattresses called futons are unfolded and laid out on the floor. If sleeping without a full bed sounds intimidating, consider that the floor itself—made of rush grass and fabric—is soft and comfortable. Some ryokan will provide Western-style beds upon request, but if you can, indulge in the unique experience of sleeping on a futon!
Meals: Enjoy the seasonality of kaiseki
Dinner at a ryokan is a real treat: a multi-course kaiseki meal. The cuisine focuses on the concept of shun (旬), which is to eat food that is local, seasonal, and eaten at the peak of its freshness and flavor. This means that depending on the time of year, the components of a ryokan dinner will vary.
A kaiseki meal at a ryokan can include—but is not limited to—the following:
- Sakizuke (先付): Appetizers, usually cold
- Suimono (吸い物): Soup, usually a clear broth
- Mukōzuke (向付): Sliced, seasonal sashimi
- Yakimono (焼物): Grilled course, usually fish
- Shiizakana (強肴): A “strong drinking dish”; in other words, the chef’s choice, which is usually some kind of hot pot dish
- Gohan (御飯): The rice dish, filled with seasonal ingredients
- Mizumono (水物): Dessert, such as seasonal fruit or sweet Japanese gelatin
Breakfast is a quieter, simpler affair. Standards include miso soup, rice, grilled fish, rolled egg omelets, pickled vegetables, and more. By the time you check out from your stay at a ryokan, you will have a healthy appreciation for Japan’s famous traditional cuisine.
>> Learn more about Japanese cuisine with our complete guide to washoku!
Rules and etiquette: Honor the quiet
As always, when visiting another country, familiarity with and adherence to the appropriate etiquette is important.
Some basic rules to keep in mind include:
- Remove shoes in the genkan (玄関, foyer).
- Be careful with the tatami mats and sliding doors, as they are easily damaged.
- Avoid being loud in general to preserve the peaceful atmosphere.
- Be polite and show your appreciation for the staff.
- There is no need to tip, as service charges are usually included.
For the baths in particular, there is a whole separate set of rules to keep in mind. First, communal baths are typically separated between men and women. Bathing suits are generally not permitted, and guests will only carry a small hand towel. Tattoos are also taboo due to cultural stigma. While not all ryokan or onsen will prohibit tattoo-sporting guests from entering the baths, it is strongly encouraged (if not required) to cover tattoos. Prepare accordingly!
Perhaps most importantly, people must clean themselves in a showering area before entering the bath. This may seem counterintuitive, but remember that the objective of enjoying onsen is to relax and soak, not to wash. Since these are shared baths, this custom is also about keeping the water clean.
Above all, politeness and respect go a long way. Observe the behavior of those around you, pay attention to any signage, and when in doubt, ask questions about proper behavior.
>> Overcome your worries about having conversations in Japanese with this video series!
Unique ryokan across Japan
Beppu Onsen
Location: Beppu, Oita Prefecture
Japan has thousands of ryokan across the country, but the city of Beppu has the most hot spring sources! Beppu Onsen refers to the entire town system of hot springs rather than a single venue. Among its many sights are the Hells of Beppu: 7 themed hot springs that are too hot to bathe in due to near-boiling temperatures.
Hiiragiya
Location: Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Located in the heart of Kyoto, Hiiragiya is over 200 years old. It does not have its own hot spring, but its proximity to a large number of Kyoto’s famous cultural sites mean Hiiragiya has plenty to offer. Entertainment by geisha (芸者, professional female entertainers trained in Japanese arts) can be arranged. Places such as Nijō Castle and the Kyoto Imperial Palace are walkable within a half hour, and the nearest subway station is only a few blocks away.
Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan
Location: Hayakawa, Yamanashi Prefecture
Over 1,300 years old, Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan is the world’s longest-standing hot spring inn. It survived the warring period of Japanese history, counting the famous shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu among its guests. Until 2017, the same family ran the ryokan for 52 generations.
Awazuonsen Houshi
Location: Komatsu, Ishikawa Prefecture
Coming in second place behind Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan for age, the Houshi ryokan was founded in the year 718 CE. The atmosphere focuses on healing the body and mind and emphasizes the beauty of nature. It has even hosted members of the Imperial Family of Japan!
Zaborin
Location: Kutchan, Hokkaido Prefecture
Not all of Japan’s ryokan are in temperate climates: Zaborin is on the northern island of Japan, Hokkaido, where winters are spectacular (and quite cold). Its version of kaiseki dinners is a northern interpretation of the traditional Kyoto one, offering a unique taste from a different region of Japan.
Beniya Mukayu
Location: Kaga, Ishikawa Prefecture
For those looking for the luxury treatment, this ryokan offers upgraded versions of all of the standard amenities as well as a number of traditional Japanese activities. Tea ceremonies, the chance to try on kimono, flower arrangement lessons, and more are all available on-site.
Learn Japanese to make the most of your stay
Whatever part of Japan you visit, you will have a variety of unforgettable ryokan options to choose from. Will you relax in an outdoor onsen while surrounding yourself with nature? What kind of traditional cuisine will you develop a taste for? Will you miss the comfort of a futon when you next sleep in a Western bed? There’s only one way to find out!
Turn to Rosetta Stone for your Japanese language study needs. Our Dynamic Immersion method will make you comfortable hearing and speaking Japanese before you ever start your first real-world conversation with a native speaker. Plus, our TruAccent speech-recognition engine will give you immediate feedback on your pronunciation! Leave rote memorization behind and build your Japanese skills naturally from the start.
Written by Alexa Bevan
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