Holy Week in Spain, or Semana Santa, is a captivating experience for locals and travelers alike. Though a traditionally Catholic celebration, this full week of festivities—some light and some somber—draw in both the devout participant and the curious observer.
You’ll find it all in Semana Santa: remembrance, penitence, celebration, sorrow, artistic expression, and a reverence for tradition. From colorful processions to ornately woven palms, it is one of the most eye-catching and heartfelt celebrations in the world.
Below, we’ll take a look at what you can expect during the week of festivities. If you’re honoring the festivities from home, we’ve even snuck in a list of traditional treats that can help you join in on the celebration.
Whether you’re interested in learning more about the cofradías (brotherhoods) that carry this tradition on their shoulders or keen on celebrating with torrijas (french toast), mastering Spanish can help you get even more out of your experiences abroad and at home. Rosetta Stone can help you prepare with our immersive, bite-sized lessons that mirror natural learning techniques and real-life conversations. Plus, TruAccent gives you immediate feedback on your pronunciation in every lesson, so you’ll always sound amazing!
What is Semana Santa?
Holy Week is one of the most important holidays in Spain and worldwide, and each day is tied to events that occurred at the end of Jesus’ death, according to biblical accounts. The three most notable days of celebration are:
- Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday): On this day, palmas (palm leaves) are woven into intricate shapes. People use them to adorn streetwide processions, and the palms are then blessed by clergy members. In the accompanying bible story, this tradition is inspired by the palm branches people waved when Jesus entered the city of Jerusalem.
- Viernes Santo (Holy Friday): Silent, somber processions—complete with elaborate floats and matching clothing—occur throughout the day to commemorate Jesus’ death and crucifixion.
- La Pascua (Easter Sunday): Christians around the world celebrate La Pascua (Easter Sunday) as the day of Christ’s resurrection from the dead and triumph over sin and suffering. In the bible, this was the day that Jesus’ tomb was found empty.
The rituals we see today in Spain originated in the 1500s. They are a mixture of many existing practices either formed or influenced by the Roman Empire, pagan groups, brotherhoods of penitents, crusaders, and even military groups. The Catholic Church struggled to control some of the practices, at times licensing specific brotherhoods and trying to ban other groups. Still, Holy Week in Spain serves as an incredible window into the past and represents centuries of history and tradition.
When is Semana Santa?
Palm Sunday marks the first day of Holy Week in Spain, as well as the last week of La Cuaresma (Lent). One week later, Easter Sunday marks both the culmination of Holy Week and the most important event in the Christian faith.
The dates of Holy Week are not fixed, though! Instead, they follow the Catholic liturgical calendar. Easter Sunday is a moveable feast day, closely associated with the date of the Jewish feast of Passover. It is traditionally celebrated on the first Sunday after the Paschal full moon, or the full moon that lands on or just after the spring equinox.
Consequently, Easter Sunday can fall anywhere between March 22 to April 25. Catholic and Protestant Churches have historically followed the Gregorian calendar, thus the date of Easter differs from the Eastern Orthodox Churches which observe the Julian calendar.
This can be confusing, but there is good news if you’re planning a trip to celebrate Easter in Spain—the dates are set well in advance!
>> Gain confidence with this guide to basic Spanish words and phrases before your trip!
How is Semana Santa celebrated in Spain?
We’ve referenced the bible plenty of times throughout this post, but it’s worth reiterating that you do not need to be Catholic to appreciate Holy Week celebrations! Respectful visitors of all faiths and walks of life are welcome to partake in the festivities, and many find the processions, both joyful and somber, to be deeply moving. Semana Santa is as much a religious practice as it is a celebration of cultural identity and community.
Which celebration will you attend? Well, that part is up to you. While some similarities remain between cities and regions, you’ll notice that each church and corresponding cofradía (brotherhood) has their own centuries-old traditions. No two celebrations are alike! Below, we’ll focus on the traditional mainstays.
Processions of Semana Santa
The most widely known Semana Santa traditions are the processions. Those familiar with the celebration will point to pasos (floats) as the most iconic symbol of Semana Santa, but cofradías (brotherhoods), costaleros (porters), and nazarenos (Nazarenes) hold equally important roles.
Each church in the city houses pasos, large ornate displays, which are carried on foot during the processions. (The English word “float” doesn’t seem to accurately translate, as there are no wheels involved. Some have two pasos, one depicting Jesus in a specific scene of the events of Holy Week, and one depicting his mother Mary and an aspect of her grief and sorrow. These are carried through the streets by costaleros (porters), and accompanied by nazarenos (Nazarenes) in hoods and robes.
Pasos (statues)
Pasos are large elaborate displays carried on foot during each procession. They are works of art in every sense of the word: ornately carved, painstakingly painted, and intricately embroidered or lined with silver and gold. Often, they carry candles and fresh flowers. Some even contain relics that date back over 500 years!
To ensure details are preserved and restored, pasos are cared for year-round by a cofradía (brotherhood) and housed in local churches. Some churches have two pasos—one depicting Jesus in a specific scene, and one depicting his mother Mary and an aspect of her grief and sorrow. Originally, the pasos served to educate a public that couldn’t read the Bible for themselves by depicting the major events and stories of Holy Week.
If you have your sights set on seeing a specific paso, know that some are too delicate to be carried outdoors in the rain. Cofradías arrange a special schedule for their procession which is published and shared with local towns in advance.
Cofradías (brotherhoods)
Cofradías (brotherhoods) are distinct religious associations of non-clergy members. That means members don’t need to be ordained to join one! Their primary purpose is community, and a close second is preparing for and leading the processions of Semana Santa. Each brotherhood is characterized by their devotion to a religious figure, often Jesus, Mary, or one of the many Catholic saints.
It’s not uncommon to find generations of family members in a cofradía, which adds to the tradition and legacy of each group. In Semana Santa celebrations, cofradía members can be identified by the color of their robes.
The steps of a Semana Santa procession
Each procession begins and ends in a church. The initial salida (exit) from the church holds special importance; it is the only time the paso leaves its home all year.
To prepare for the procession, the costaleros (porters) gather into position, wearing robes and sometimes hoods to disguise their faces. Some pasos weigh over two tons, and together the costaleros share this weight, standing in a grid formation to shoulder the wooden supports over their neck and upper back. The pain and burden is considered an honor, representing their sharing in the suffering of Christ and penitence for wrongdoing.
A guide leads the procession through the doors and into the streets. It is important that the group step together and keep pace, creating a swaying effect as the leader calls out their steps. They leave the church and begin a grueling journey, the longest of which lasts up to 14 hours.
The costaleros need to be prepared for a physically taxing day, which is why they prepare and practice in the weeks leading up to this event by carrying wooden grids weighed down with concrete blocks. Some take shifts in order to eat and drink water to regain their strength and tolerate the journey in the heat of the day.
The processions also include the nazarenos (Nazarenes). Depending on the region, it could include marching bands and flamenco singers. Spectators gather to watch along the route as the paso sways slowly through the streets. Ticketed seats with a good view can cost hundreds of euros, or you can get up close and personal with others in the crowd. Expect the streets to be packed!
Children in the crowd watch in awe, sometimes with hands held out to receive candy from the passing nazarenos, and parents and grandparents take the opportunity to educate their children about the events depicted in the paso.
The nature of each paso varies. In Bilbao, the first procession of the week depicts Jesus entering Jerusalem riding the borriquito (little donkey). Others are scheduled each day, reflecting the passion, crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus. The corresponding floats of Mary each depict an aspect of her grief as she watches her son’s torture and execution.
At various times during the procession, the mood of the crowd might be celebratory and festive, whereas at other times the crowd may fall silent out of respect. As a visitor, it would be wise to follow the examples of the locals, as the specifics may not be familiar and can vary greatly.
Once the journey is complete, the entrada (entry) takes the paso back into the church or chapel where it is displayed and restored throughout the rest of the year by the corresponding brotherhood.
Clothing of Semana Santa
Other than the pasos, the most iconic part of Semana Santa is the clothing. The brotherhoods each have their own traditions that dictate the color, robe, hood, belt or rope, and insignia. Some of these go back hundreds of years, and often the clothing can be passed down from generation to generation. The belts and ropes are still made in some places by hand on spinning wheels, and are a valued piece of quality artwork on display. In Sevilla, accompanying the floats are solemn women wearing traditional mantillas, black lace face veils and black dresses.
Surrounding the costaleros (porters), additional hooded figures, wearing sharply pointed cones on their heads and seeing only through holes in the fabric, accompany the pasos. These nazarenos (Nazarenes) represent penitentes (penitents), those experiencing sorrow and punishment for their wrongdoing. Their identities are disguised from the time they leave their homes, alone, until they return. Though they can also receive care from loved ones along the way (water being essential for survival), it would not be considered appropriate to remove the hood during the procession.
The hand-stitched cones and facial coverings serve to disguise the penitents, the anonymity showing that all are equally guilty of wrongdoing, and the pointed cones direct that penance up toward the heavens. Children may also dress in cones or the colors and insignia of the brotherhood as spectators.
These coned hats, also known as capirote, are most jarring to visitors—there’s no denying their resemblance to the white hoods and cones worn by the Ku Klux Klan. The traditions of Semana Santa bear no ties to hate groups, and Spain continues to be incredibly welcoming of all visitors. The capirote has been worn by Catholics for centuries and has long been a symbol of penitence, influenced by the Spanish Inquisition.
Traditional foods of Semana Santa
Though the costaleros and nazarenos may abstain until their work is done, no festivity is complete without the food. Though the events take place during the Lenten season of self-denial, Holy Week in Spain is no disappointment when it comes to the culinary experience.
- Torrija: A Spanish-style French toast, sweet and made with milk and eggs like a bread pudding. There are many possible flavors, and it is a must during this season.
- Pestiños: Deep-fried sweets made with flour, honey, aniseed, and cinnamon.
- Garbanzos con espinacas: This dish of chickpeas with spinach is a savory meatless option for those who are abstaining during Lent.
- Mona de Pascua: Known as Easter cake and decorated with whole eggs, this dessert is traditionally eaten on Easter Sunday or Monday.
- Croquetas de bacalao: Fish croquettes are popular cod fritters served as tapas or a light meal.
- Sopa de ajo: This garlic soup is a simple dish that can be served with poached egg.
- Rosquillas or Buñuelos: These sweet and savory donuts are a welcome treat on Easter in Spain, but you’ll also find them served at Christmas in many Latin American countries!
- Flores fritas: Known as “fried flowers,” these sweet fritters are flavored with aniseed and orange and are perfect with a hot beverage.
- Potaje de Vigilia: This stew made with garbanzos, spinach, cod, and garlic, is popular on Viernes Santo (Good Friday).
- Sancocho Canaria: This fish stew was made famous in the Canary Islands and is closely tied with many dishes served in the Caribbean.
- Patatas Viudas: A Lenten adaptation of a potato dish which does not contain meat, but is flavored with aromatics, bell pepper, and Spanish paprika.
- Tapas: In general, these “small plates” are a not-to-be-missed experience during Semana Santa and year-round. Take advantage of Spain’s wealth of seafood-based bites, or other small shareable dishes made with simply-prepared vegetables, olives, cheeses, and other toppers for bites of bread.
How does Semana Santa differ between regions of Spain?
While the celebrations across Spain seem to unify locals with cultural identity and tradition, each region has distinctives that set it apart. The practices of the processions, floats, brotherhoods, and penitent robes are part of the tradition in most cities, but the most glamorous celebrations are seen in Andalusia, while those in Castile and León are more solemn and serious.
Some interesting points of regional difference include:
- Jerez de la Frontera: Experience the saeta, a traditional style of regional song performed on balconies and characterized by strong emotions.
- Málaga: Witness a slew of festive bands, and the tallest tronos (thrones carried on the pasos). The tone of processions in Málaga is also noticeably less somber than that of processions elsewhere.
- Seville: Marvel at the antiquity of the pasos that appear to float through the streets alone. This optical illusion is a simple one, though! The costaleros are simply well hidden under the structure of the float.
- León: In one procession, two of the floats meet and carry out a synchronized movement where they appear to dance with one another.
- Salamanca: Witness one of the oldest celebrations in Spain, dating back to 1240.
- Valladoid: Horses aren’t prevalent in most Semana Santa celebrations, but you will find them featured here as members of the Valladoid brotherhood pronounce the “Sermon of the Seven Words” on horseback.
- Zamora: Sisterhoods and brotherhoods alike celebrate in more of a medieval style with robes traditionally worn by monks and choirs instead of bands. Nighttime processions are held in silence.
- Toledo: Visitors may get the chance to peek inside the city’s monasteries and convents in what is typically the only opportunity of the year as they are generally closed to the public.
- Cartagena: The celebrations follow a stricter order and are more chronological in terms of events.
Build deeper connections with Spanish culture and beyond
Semana Santa is a window into Spain’s wider culture. Catholicism is, of course, a focal point of Spanish culture, but celebration, community, and passing tradition down through the generations are wonderful narrative ties that all can appreciate.
Somehow, we’ve really only scratched the surface in breathing life into Semana Santa. For the full experience, we recommend checking it out for yourself! The rituals and traditions of Spain’s Holy Week are truly one-of-a-kind. Plus, with so many elements unique to each city celebration, there’s enough to see for years to come.
The richness of world cultures can leave us curious, impressed, intrigued, and moved to an extent that goes beyond the boundaries of language. Build deeper connections to the cultures that inspire you. Rosetta Stone offers multiple entry points into an unfamiliar culture, with immersive, bite-sized lessons that help you learn language and expand your cultural knowledge. You’ll even have the opportunity to refine your pronunciation in every lesson with TruAccent!
Written by Jamie Edwards
Jamie is a learner and teacher of Spanish and French. When she’s not learning new words, you’ll find her on the soccer sidelines, ski slopes, and track and field bleachers enjoying the four seasons of Western New York.
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