Want to learn more about a nation’s culture? The easiest way to dive right in is by taking a look at their annual holidays. Take the United States, for example: President’s Day emphasizes a national pride in presidential successes and American democracy as a whole, while the federal recognition of Christmas points to the country’s Christian roots.
In a culture heavily influenced by Buddhist and Shinto values, Japan’s holidays celebrate everything from marine life to health and sports. Most notable are the days dedicated to honoring specific groups of people: the children, the elderly, the “coming-of-age,” and in the case of Hinamatsuri (雛祭り), the health and happiness of young girls.
Hinamatsuri is a holiday characterized by ornate dolls and elaborate displays. Below, we’ll take a look at the celebration’s numerous origins, traditions, and cities where you can see these incredible exhibits in person!
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What is Hinamatsuri in Japan?
Hinamatsuri (雛祭り), also known as Girls’ Day or Dolls’ Day, is a Shinto religious holiday that celebrates the joy and well-being of young girls. This “doll festival” is aptly named. Dolls wearing Heian period clothing are set on multi-tiered altars, each tier of which represents a part of the Japanese royal court in that era.
On March 3 and the days before it, girls have parties with friends and family while the dolls are on display. Families with girls celebrate it from birth until she is ten years old. A daughter’s first Hinamatsuri is an important milestone for the family! Boys don’t usually participate, but children regardless of gender are celebrated on a separate holiday, which takes place every year on May 5th.
As you learn more about Hinamatsuri, you may come across a popular manga and anime series by the same name. The plot doesn’t have much to do with the holiday! The title instead refers to one of the main characters, a young girl named Hina with telekinetic powers.
Understanding the history of Hinamatsuri
Hinamatsuri dates back over 1,000 years and is a mix of several traditions. The exact origins of Momo no Sekku, the original peach festival, are unclear. The most likely theory is that it was introduced from China in the 3rd century. Parents soon started performing a ritual similar to the nagashi-bina near the festival to bring good health to their children during a time of high child mortality.
Displaying dolls in the home didn’t become popular until the Edo period (1603 – 1868). The doll arrangement was first created by Tokugawa Masako, the empress consort to Emperor Go-Mizunoo, in 1629 when her husband abdicated and her daughter, Princess Meisho, succeeded the throne. At the time, female emperors were not allowed to marry. The original display depicted her daughter having the wedding that she wouldn’t get in real life. In 1687, the name of the festival was changed from Momo no Sekku to Hinamatsuri.
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When is Hinamatsuri celebrated in Japan?
Hinamatsuri is held on March 3rd of every year as one of five seasonal festivals (五節句, gosekku) that are traditionally tied to the Chinese calendar. The others include:
- New Year (January 1st)
- Tango no sekku (May 5)
- Tanabata Matsuri (July 7)
- Kikku no sekku (September 9)
The day was historically known as the Peach Festival (桃の節句, Momo no Sekku) and held in the early spring when peach trees started flowering. This shifted when Japan switched to the Gregorian calendar. Families usually start setting up the altar in mid-February and take it down the day after Hinamatsuri. There’s an old superstition that leaving the dolls out too long will lead to the daughter getting married late in life. The practical reason behind packing them up quickly is that the humidity can damage the dolls.
How is the Hinamatsuri altar designed?
The centerpiece of Hinamatsuri celebrations is the doll altar. The altar is covered in a red carpet called a dankake (段掛). The dolls are collectively called hina-ningyō (雛人形). The whole set, including the dolls’ clothing and accessories, is called the hinakazari (雛飾り). The dolls and accessories are traditionally arranged with the emperor (tono 殿 or Odairi-sama 御内裏様) and empress (hime 姫 or Ohina-sama 御雛様) dolls at the top and the remaining dolls on lower four to six platforms according to their importance in the imperial hierarchy. This is the typical placement:
- First tier: The emperor and empress dolls are flanked by a folding screen.
- Second tier: Three san-nin kanjo (三人官女, court ladies), a sake decanter, and a round table of sweets.
- Third tier: Five gonin bayashi (五人囃子, court musicians) and their instruments.
- Fourth tier: Two daijin (大臣, ministers) and various gifts for the emperor and empress.
- Fifth tier: Three shichō (仕丁, helpers) or eji (衛士, protectors); these dolls represent certain characters which vary according to region.
- Sixth tier (optional): Furniture and items used inside the palace.
- Seventh tier (optional): Furniture and items used outside of the palace.
The number of dolls and complexity of the setup depends on what the family can afford. Doll sets are quite expensive, ranging from $1500-$2500 for a five-tier set! Dolls are typically passed down from prior generations or gifted by grandparents. While the sixth and seventh tier platforms are optional, they are most common in Tokyo households.
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Other Hinamatsuri traditions
The hina-ningyō may be the stars of the holiday, but they’re not the only Hinamatsuri decorations. Households traditionally decorate with Tsurushi-Bina (吊るし雛, literally. “hanging dolls”), garlands of miniature dolls and other objects made of fabric tied together by silk cords. They’re usually homemade out of fabric scraps.
Cities and towns around the country also hold “doll floating ceremonies” called nagashi-bina (流し雛). These involve making small dolls out of paper and straw and sending them down a river in a boat. The dolls are meant to carry the sins of the people who made them. Some places still have their nagashi-bina according to the lunisolar calendar instead of on March 3rd.
Traditional food served during Hinamatsuri
The dishes traditionally served during Hinamatsuri include:
- Hina-arare (雛あられ): Multi-colored rice crackers
- Chirashizushi (ちらし寿司): Raw fish and vegetables on rice in a bowl or bento box. The name literally translates to “scattered sushi.”
- Hishi mochi (菱餅): Mochi with pink, white, and green layers. The colors represent hopes for the daughter’s future fertility.
- Ichigo daifuku (いちご大福): Strawberries wrapped in adzuki bean paste.
- Sakuramochi (桜餅): Cherry blossom flavored mochi.
- Ushiojiru (うしお汁): Clam soup. Clams are in their shells to represent a joined pair and hopes for the daughter’s future marriage.
Since the holiday is centered around children, the traditional drink of choice is shirozake (白酒), a type of non-alcoholic sake.
Where to celebrate Hinamatsuri in Japan
You don’t have to be invited to a private Japanese home to enjoy Hinamatsuri as a visitor. Some cities have public doll displays and festivals. Some popular Hinamatsuri destinations include:
- Katsuura Big Hinamatsuri Festival
- Izu Inatori
- Makabe
- Yuki City
- Seto
- Tsumago
- Yanagawa
- Tokyo’s Hundred-Steps Staircase
See what a traditional Hinamatsuri display looks like in the small town of Kaisei in the video below! Plus, dive into more detail on each of the locales listed above.
Katsuura Big Hinamatsuri Festival
The most famous public Hinamatsuri event in Japan takes place in Katsuura, Chiba. The entire town is decorated for the festival, but the centerpiece is the Tomisaki Shrine. The stairs leading up to the shrine display over 1,800 dolls.
Izu Inatori (Inatori, Shizuoka)
The small town of Inatori is known for its hot springs and its Hinamatsuri festival! You can see the dolls displayed on the steps up to the Susanoo Shrine, Inatori Cultural Park, and Hina Hall Mukai-an.
Makabe and Yuki City, Ibaraki
Makabe and Yuki City are small towns in the Ibaraki prefecture that set up popular Hinamatsuri displays in peaceful settings. Both locations are great if you’re looking for something more understated.
Seto, Aichi
Seto is a small city that is famous for its pottery and ceramics. Their Hinamatsuri displays are made out of clay! The city’s most prominent display, featuring over 1,000 dolls, can be viewed at the Setogura Museum.
Tsumago, Nagano
Tsumago is a post town on the old Nakasendo route and continues to be a popular resting spot for hikers. The town has a unique Hinamatsuri display at Fureai Hall, which acts as a free resting spot for tourists passing through. Many homes and businesses also display their dolls in windows so passersby can enjoy them.
Yanagawa, Fukuoka
Yanagawa holds a famous Hinamatsuri festival from February through April every year. In addition to the traditional aspects of the holiday, the Ohina-sama Water Parade is a local highlight. In it, children dress in period costume and march along the canal while the town watches.
Tokyo’s Hundred-Steps Staircase
Tokyo’s famous Hundred-Steps Staircase at the Meguro Gajoen Building covered in Hinamatsuri dolls is an impressive sight for any visitor. The dolls are donated from across the Kyushu region.
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Hinamatsuri is a well-loved holiday in Japan, and it’s easy to see why—it perfectly encapsulates Japan’s commitment to family and beauty. If a trip to Japan is in your future, it’s worth going out of your way to see a Hinamatsuri display in person!
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Written by Luca Harsh
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